First 3 days in Kitgum

Day 1

I left Kampala at 6am in the morning and travelled by taxi to Kajjansii airfield in order to fly to Gulu.  I was the first to arrive at the airfield but was soon joined by a number of other passengers travelling to various parts of Uganda.  A variety of people - government officials, NGO staff and my fellow passenger, an american woman writing a book on the status of widows in african society.  She was travelling to Gulu to interview some women who were in the IDP (internationally displaced people) camps.  We were travelling in a very small 4 seater plane - not my favourite mode of travel but it was a smooth flight lasting 1 hour 10.  We had great views across the Ugandan countryside - so lush and green

and with some huge glistening lakes. 

I was met at Gulu by Christopher, the Programme Manager and Dennis, the ICT guy both of whom had stayed in Gulu the night before in order to collect me.  They were really cheerful and lively guys and very engaging.  They warned me about the trip to Kitgum - the state of the road and the length of journey and to be prepared.  They had a good four wheel vehicle - on loan to them from UNICEF.  We passed through Gulu ok and then got on to the Kitgum road, though you couldn't call it a road - it was like a ravine in places especially with all the rain which had created huge gulleys and massive potholes all the way through.  It was very, very bumpy as we wound our way along the road.  All through, there were the remnants of the IDP camps - mostly now empty as most of the people had returned to their communities.  It was really interesting listening to Christopher talking passionately about the work of the project and how its focus had changed from being a reception centre for child escapees of the LRA to now working with communities to empower them to support and rehabilitate returning child soldiers and child mothers. 

IDP camps that surround Gulu & Kitgum



Christopher (left), Dennis (right)

We arrived in Kitgum around 1230 and I was taken to the project for brief introductions with the staff before checking in to my hotel.  It was a bit of shock when I arrived at the place I would be staying and my heart sank.  There was clearly no-one else staying there.  I was shown to the room where I would be staying only to find that there was a really bad smell and no running water to the sink or bath.   Without wanting to offend my hosts, I explained that it wasn't viable for two weeks to stay there.  So, we headed off to the Boma, a hotel I had seen on the internet and which looked ok.  However, when we arrived the rooms with hot water had all been taken and only rooms with cold water remained.  I was shown the rooms but the place felt terrible and the rooms weren't especially clean.  I just couldn't imagine how I could put up with staying there.  At this point, my enthusiasm was plummeting.  Then I remembered a place called Fugleys, an expat bed and breakfast and I asked Christopher and Dennis if they knew of this and if so, could we go there.  They knew it as the place where the "whites" go but were happy to take me there.  It was a relief to find they had comfortable rooms with hot water and also a bar and restaurant for evening meals and breakfast.  Phew!  I was very hot, thirsty and exhausted at this point and so I was left to have the afternoon to unpack and rest which was a great relief. 

There are a few other people staying here - two Australian brothers who have a drilling business (bringing water to villages) and their mother who was visiting from Australia.  In the evening, there were some other people in the bar having drinks - two missionaries from Florida who had been in Kitgum for 4 years.  So we ate and chatted before I went to bed at around 9.  There was no power from 4pm so that meant no lights (thankfully I brought a wind up torch) and also no fan - equals very hot and uncomfortable night! I slept on and off..

Day 2
The next day was my first full day at the Project.  Torrential thunderstorms first thing in the morning.  Thankfully, I was collected and driven to the Project.  Still no power but the Project had a generator so work could continue.  I spent an hour or so with Christopher, talking in detail about the project, the funding, the plans and vision for the future.  He is an inspiring and intelligent man and very passionate about his country and the work - it all comes from his heart and this is quite humbling.  He tells me some of the history of the war, its impact and how it has destroyed entire communities leaving people severely traumatised and having to start again with literally nothing.  Not one person hasn't been affected.    There is overwhelming need and with many of the NGOs now leaving because the emergency is now over, it is organisations like KICWA which are left to support the rebuilding of communities and of course they can only deal with a small minority of people that need help, at least without adequate funding and support to develop.  Continuity of funding is a major issue for them.

I spent the remainder of the morning and afternoon with Robert, the accountant.  He is a very pleasant man to work with - intelligent and thorough too in his approach which is a good sign.  We went through a detailed assessment of their financial management & reporting systems.   Overall, these were very good - in fact, better than most!   There are some areas for improvement, of course - one or two internal controls can be strengthened, the budgeting process could be organisation driven rather than donor driven and it's clear that not all costs are currently covered, including salaries.  Inflation also plays an important issue with regards to budgeting - as this can be difficult to predict, meaning that they often need to go back to their donors to revise and seek approval for variations to budget lines.  Insurance costs are also prohibitive meaning that fixed assets are vulnerable if stolen (which has happened).    Robert has developed a good manual cash accounting system but this is quite time consuming and inefficient and also prone to errors and inconsistencies.  He is very keen to transfer to a computerised accounting system and so I think a large amount of my time will focus on taking him through a detailed tour and training on Quickbooks, using their free trial version.  If he finds this workable, they will then need to raise funds to purchase this.  Hopefully their funders will recognise the benefits of this and will be able to provide funds - Quickboks is a cost effective package for them and so hopefully raising the funds will not be too difficult. 

Robert was delayed back from lunch - he was worried about his 5 year old daughter who came down with malaria on Monday.  Thankfully, she is going to be ok.  I left the office at 5pm - my office is in the picture.  These were the reception centres where the children would sleep - they have now made one of these into an office where Robert, Fred (Programme Assistant) and now me work.  It is actually a really nice environment to work in - it stays cool and shady.  They have wired it up so it has full electricity and networking.  Most of the children have now returned to the community but they do still have some children reaching them from time to time.  The last were in March this year when 7 children managed to escape from the rebel army in the Congo and miraculously found their way to Kitgum and KICWA.  The reception centre was originally built to reflect the housing that was provided in the IDP camps - so that the children could get used to this before returning to the community.

Finished work at around 5pm and returned to the guest house.  Very tired and very hot so went for a cup of tea just to relax for half an hour.   Sat and talked with Trevor the General Manager for a bit - a South African guy who had been there for around 3 months after spending the last few years living in Belfast where his family are from.  Walter, a local guy had also come in for a drink and so I chatted to him for a bit as well.  Then went back to my room, faffed about with my mobile phone again transferring the sim card over to a Ugandan one.   This has been frustrating but still much better than I thought it would be.

Went for dinner at around 7pm and there was quite a crowd tonight - the two Australians and their mum, the two American missionaries, a very interesting danish humanitarian worker who had come from Gulu for a few days and Lois a New Zealand woman who just decided to come over about 7 years ago and set up an orphanage for children with varying disabilities.  I am planning on visiting there on Saturday.  It is expat where I am staying which is not my thing but you do get some really interesting people passing through and it isn't great to venture out at night in Kitgum.  Was a bit tired but it was a nice evening.  Went straight to bed and felt brave enough to leave some windows open and it was better for sleeping.  There are wire meshes over the windows so, despite the fact they don't shut properly, not too many things get through - & I have my net.

Day 3

Decided I was going to walk to the office today and Dennis offered to meet me at around 8ish to show me the way - he knocked on my door at 730 before I'd even had breakfast!  He was fine though and waited for half hour.  He had just been up to visit his uncle who is HIV positive. We then walked to the office - about 15 minutes or so - you see a lot more of life as it is when you walk.  The tracks are terrible but there are plenty of people to say hello to along the way.  Living conditions are not good.

I spent the first hour or so with Christopher who had printed off some further documents that I'd asked for the day before - strategic plan, funding proposals & contracts etc.  The strategic plan was very well written as were the funding reports sent to donors.  They have in place many systems, procedures and supporting documents which I have seen lacking in many UK based organisations.  I am beginning to think they should be teaching me whilst I'm there. 

I spent the morning reading through a lot of the documentation just to try and build as full a picture as possible.  I also started to write up my assessment from yesterday.  Robert came in and asked if I knew much about Sudanese politics.  Apparently the Sudanese government and the rebel dinkas have been in discussion about oil reserves which reside on dinka land.  Talks were held in Nairobi at the weekend but they failed to reach an agreement and there is concern that the there will be fighting between the two sides resulting in a de-stabilisation of the Sudanese region.  This then leaves the whole area vulnerable with a possibility that Kony the LRA leader who remains in hiding will use the opportunity to find a route back into northern Uganda.  There was a lot of concern today amongst the staff about the situation there.

Stopped for a tea break with the team about 1145 - Ugandan tea which was delicious and they all had a snack which was a chapati type of thing.  They have big appetites - I declined knowing that I would be having lunch in an hour.  It is a good opportunity to talk and get to know each other a bit - there is much they are all curious about and they find my reticence to try out African food, my small appetite and my overall naivety as far as Ugandan culture and language are concerned all very amusing!  But all in a nice and good spirited way.  They are very keen to hear how different things are in the UK.  I couldn't wish for better hosts.

Went to lunch with Boscoe today - the same place and I had maize, beans and a green vegetable (like cabbage) which is mushed with peanut butter.  It was actually good.  I sat and chatted to Boscoe - a really nice guy.  His mum and dad live in a village but he lives with some extended family in Kitgum.  I asked how many brothers and sisters - two brothers and six sisters, or at least there were.  Sadly, now only four sisters.  His two other sisters were abducted and murdered by the LRA one afternoon when they were visiting the village.  They were informed of their deaths by some of the children who were abducted at the same time but managed to escape.

A bit of a frustrating afternoon - Robert was delayed coming back and the intention was to start the training on Quickbooks.  However, his computer is very slow and there were numerous problems trying to download the software.  In the end we gave up and found a way round it using my lap-top - but the afternoon was then up and time to go.  I was expecting to go on a field trip tomorrow but unfortunately that was cancelled so I will spend tomorrow morning on the first training session.  They have planned a number of field trips to see various aspects of the work which I am really pleased about.  Will tell you about those as they happen.

Been writing my blog since I arrived back at 5pm.  A monumental storm just as I got back to my room like I have not seen.  Stopped at around 630pm.  We have managed to keep power.  Had a quick dinner - very quiet tonight - just me and the Danish lady which was nice.  She leaves tomorrow but comes back Monday for a night.  She invited me to Gulu at the weekend to spend with her and her Danish friends but I don't think I can face the road journey to and from Gulu again.  Am very tired tonight - has been quite an overwhelming few days and the heat and culture shock are beginning to kick in.   Despite really enjoying being at the Project, I am still wondering where I can add value in terms of building financial capacity.  I think much of what I can do is offer reassurance where they are doing well and identify areas where systems development is necessary if they are to offer the assurance donors will require regarding their ability to sustain larger and more complex funding arrangements. 

Now off to bed...